Cobh and Cork Harbour

As we approached Cork, we took a diversion through Cobh or Queenstown as it was known in the days of the Titanic (Kingstown was beside Dublin, now known as Dun Laoghaire). Cork is built on the River Lee and as Ireland's second city, the harbour was extended into the estuary centred on Cobh built on the Great Island.

Belvelly Tower House

Even in Norman times it seems, the island had significance and a rather grand Norman Tower House guards the causeway from the mainland. Although derelict, this tower is awaiting planning permission for renovation as a regular dwelling. Quite an impressive address if it works out.

Sculpture on Cobh Promenade

Cobh retains a Victorian elegance from its glory days when ships en route to America would pause here to collect Irish emigrants. There is a museum by the railway station which served as the focus for many Irish people travelling by train to join the ships docked outside. This was the last landfall made by the Titanic on its ill-fated first and only voyage.

Vacant Cobh Pub

Cobh itself is built on steep hillside dropping down to the sea. Roads twist and turn trying to compensate for the landscape and a plethora of road signs point in every direction imaginable. This makes for spectacular views from the buildings looking out over Cork Harbour but equally looking back at the Victorian grandeur - often passed its best like the temple converted to a pub and now languishing boarded up and unused. The grey granite cathedral still looks magnificent though.

Haulbowline Island Naval Base

Across the water are the wonderfully named Haulbowline Island and Spike Island. Haulbowline has been fortified since the 16th century originally by the British Army but later the Navy took over the island as a dockyard, arsenal and naval base during the Napoleonic Wars. The world's first yacht club was established here in 1720!

We never made much of Cork: our passenger window had jammed open and we searched the city for a Fiat dealer who asked us to come back in the morning. We headed out to Blarney on our first rainy day - obviously with our window stuck open. Just about had time to spot Blarney Castle before zooming in to Cork for running repairs then onto Kinsale.