Castle Caldwell

Exposed corner tower

The original Castle Caldwell was built from 1610 by Thomas Blemmerhassett on the 1500 acre estate he acquired in the Plantation of Ulster. About 50 years later the castle was purchased by James Caldwell, a properous Enssikillen merchant originally from Ayrshire in Scotland. Unlike many other plantation castles, this one survived intact into the early 19th century. But by the turn into the 20th century the castle had fallen into disrepair and after 300 years it had become a ruin. It has remained that way since then though it is now in state "care". Much of the structure remains though it is now heavily shrouded in ivy and the forest continues to invade it.

Ivy root

A path leads past this corner tower and although the structure seems fairly evident, as you walk by it can be easily missed. Other views, especially toward what would have been the main facade can see nothing but a wall of greenery - nothing to suggest a castle lies buried underneath. Recent years growth have even over taken the warning signs.

It is not too difficult to dodge the nettles and brambles and scramble through the broken fence and enter the structure through what must have been a regular doorway at one time. Inside the tower is fairly clear of shrubbery though huge ivy roots trail through the old arrow slits feeding the ivy adorning the external walls. It is still evident from these slits and the castellations that can be seen from inside that the tower was constructed for defense.

Display windows facing North

Its use clearly changed over the years and while there must have been an internal court-yard with wide passageways spanned by high arches, more modern structures of wide arched windows facing out to the water-side are evident. Though earth has built up on both sides suggesting these might have been doorways, other access points are much lower. These must be a relatively modern feature being very close to where the lake would have reached.

Multiple floor joist holes and arrow slits

 In the mid-twentieth century, a major lowering in water levels was engineered. The waters of the lake then receded from the building though for much of the north-facing shoreline, the old coast is quite evident with a distinct, almost sheer drop in land levels from the old to the new reclaimed land. A boundary line of young oak trees also follows the old shore-line.


 This part of the building suggests the different levels; the bottom doorway leading out to the ancient water line, supporting holes for joists supporting a floor with arrow slit windows and at least one floor above that. Parts of the structure have survived amazingly well including several oak lintels above doors and windows, metal supporting spikes and even some plastered batten, possibly contemporary with brick work in various parts.

There are other structures elsewhere on the peninsula including a ruined chapel with graveyard and tombs, a viewpoint or tower-base at the eastern point, an ice house and possibly contemporary quays or landing stages on the south shore.

Future Targets

The weather today was supposed to be good if a bit blustery. At about 6:00am the sky gaves us the "sailors warning" with a spectacular firey sunrise

Neither of us seemed to have much motivation to get started today though P did an early morning bike run. We were both feeling the affects of yesterday's paddling and an excess of fresh air.

We headed south and somehow ended up in the Republic without quite meaning to; made the most of it anyway stopping for a great lunch in Belturbet and refilling the van with diesel at a 15% discount.

When we got back into the North we checked out various locations though the wind was too strong for us to consider heading out. Knockninny: had a nice little marina with a stylish hotel & restaurant nearby; quite extensive water with islands within paddling distance (see picture). Carry Bridge: disappointing busy commercial centre though it does have a camp site adjacent to the river and hotel. Crom Castle: we looked over to the castle and Crichton's tower on the first day and on closer inspection it was even better close up; really interesting spot for exploring by either canoe or bicycle if we could find somewhere to park the van.

And eventually home - with a minor detour to Kinegoe Marina for a cuppa - for tea with the boys.

Mother of all Yews

Started the day with a cycle round Florence Court.

The entrance to the estate is wonderful; seemingly manicured lawns skirting a perfect little switch-back road. This took us up to the main car park before the house beside the walled garden.

The walled garden is currently being reconstructed. An original plan shows it to be quite huge with an Italianette entrance flanked by apple orchard. The apple blossom was especially striking with perhaps half-a-dozen mature trees crowded close together overloaded with blooms. By the entrance too were several varieties of Narcissus. So far work is progressing really well and looks to be near finished just waiting for the plants to mature.

A stone wall separates this part from the rest of the garden and of course out of sight, behind the wall and the garden is barely under control. Mostly seeded as lawn with the paths barely defined. Evidently this is work in progress. At the top is a small cottage available for rent. Constructed as the other walls are in a rather unusual brick pattern, the cottage looks an ideal holiday retreat. At the other end are more apple trees and quite a few saplings only planted very recently. FInishing the garden is a large wall stretching the full length with a couple of architectural features. What interested me most were several wisterias twisting their was up the brick-work. A few were even in bloom.

From here we cycled round the back of the house following various trails past the sawmill, ice house and such into woodland. Skirting pasture at times and just about staying within the boundaries of the estate we came to the FLorencecout or Irish Yew. According to a stone before the tree, it was found between 1740 and 1760. Being female it can only be propogated by cuttings and this has led to some severe pruning of the tree. See the Wikipedia article for more information and pictures. Despite this, the tree seems relatively healthy after almost 300 years!

From the tree, paths led back toward the estate entrance road crossing in front of the house far enough away to give a grand view of the house. Its not quite as I remember it when I played with Niall and Steve & Lynne Majury's eldest in the cut grass by the steps of the front-door - must have been well before 1984...

Back at the van, we set off quickly having planned our search for a new launch point. Just above the Share Centre and Smith's Beach is Killy Quay. We arrived here and started to assemble the boat. Considering this place is on the road to nowhere, it was like Picadilly Circus will all sorts driving by. Two sets of young fellas arrived with their flash motors which they drove right to the edge of the Quay so they could take photos.

Anyway we got the boat into the water again avoiding getting wet. This whole region is supposed to be very shallow - less than a meter as far as we could see. Indeed right out in between the bigger islands were patches of reed poking through the water - quite bizare. The wind was up today though and seemed to catch the boat quite badly. Made steering difficult and hard work paddling into the wind or even across it. We did not feel so confident in these conditions and came in fairly quickly.

On our way back to the Florencecourt site we were stopped by a force of 6 PSNI officers and nearly as many squad cars. Remarkable more for the fact they were all female.

Fermanagh Ahoy

Made good time leaving promptly at 5:30 from Bangor stopping for a dreadful dinner near Dungannon - tasteless faggots, yugh!

Reached Enniskillen while it was still light but mistakenly chose the wrong road which took us along the western side of the lower lough. Coincidently we took this road on our honeymoon (from the Killyhevlin) and at what must have been the exact same spot we were stopped again at a police check - 30 years on.

Even at this time the views along the lough-shore were spectacular. Not many islands on this side so the views were across to Boa and the likes. P was eager to get the canoe out at these jetties; even the river through Beleek looked inviting. Eventually we wound our way round to Clonelly after passing in and out of the Republic several times.

Saturday was a tourist day.

Starting at Clonelly we motored into Enniskillen looking for a rope for the canoe and maps of the loughs. The town was seriously busy; though we did enjoy the handmade posters for election candidate Stevenson as we sat stuck in traffic. We decided to head out of town and hopefully pick-up something by the Lough. Made it as far as Lisnaskea where we paused for refreshments.

Spent a lot of time checking out various jetties and slipways but nothing quite seemed to work. Eventually we found our way to Derryvoy jetty but there were too many cruisers tied up to the dock. Continued to the supposed part-time ferry to Crom; here the road just petered out becoming the grounds for Crom Church. This was to be our first launch point.

Moved the van down the path and assembled the canoe; carried it down to the slipway. Water too shallow so P climbed in dry and I waded in to push the boat out. Spent what seemed like ages pottering about from island to island and just sitting watching the herons & swans; but it was probably only 30 minutes before we came in. Despite this we were so exhilarated; the canoe was so stable and easy to control. We both managed to exit without getting ourselves wet.

By now it was getting quite late and light was fading so we headed for the Florencecourt site.

White Island

Well, its Easter Saturday and we hurtled down quick as we could with all 3 kids on board. First stop Omagh to take on refreshments and then a final spurt to Kesh and Clonelly just in time for enough light to setup a tent for the boys. The night sky was remarkably clear and according to the sky-atlas on my netbook,we were able to identify both Mars and Saturn - Mars was especially red and quite distinct.

Next day we headed for Castle Archdale. Arrived in the car park with an open-air religious meet in progress; could not rent a boat for while nor even extra bikes so we went a dander till it rained and we retreated to the van for lunch. Timed it well as by then the boat was free.

Tootled off in the Oyster, all 5 on-board. For me, driving, everything felt very strange. Engine was really sluggish - even flat-out - which meant the steering was not responsive and the boat had a tendency to wallow about quite easily. The balance of the boat was easily upset when someone moved or shifted seats or even just hitting the wash of a passing jet-ski.

First stop was White Island. A ruined 9th Century church had a number of carvings mounted on the wall. Several of the faces were quite grumpy. Gave us plenty of photos, in and around the church walls. But the island was more an excuse to land the boat and recover our confidence than anything so we were all eager to get afloat again.

Having docked pointing the wrong way, took some deft heaving by Niall to haul us right-way-round so we could power out without any special tricks. By now Pauline was loving it, yelling how much she wanted a boat. Quite a surprise given her prior aversion to water craft. We headed round a larger island and behind a third. All the kids taking turns at steering the boat. Reckoned there was nowhere else worth traveling to so we just docked at the largest island and decamped.

I am positive this is an island I took the kids to last time we had a boat, way back in the 80's; the remains of an old house was very familiar. The weather today was a bit quieter than it was the last trip.

Everywhere on the island, wild garlic was getting ready to bloom and the aroma already filled the air in still spots. Found a purplish flower that Niall said was very rare and only found in Crawfordsburn; seemed quite happy where it was here. Walked a fair bit into the island hoping to find picnic seats (as informed by the boat people) hoping to reach another jetty currently out of commission. But to no avail - after at least a mile of following what was left of a wide track deep into the island surrounded by silence, we turned back. Along the way we found numerous examples of a rather odd fungi: very firm with a bright red inverted cap and clean white stem. Thought it very odd to be growing in the spring.

Returned to the jetty where we settled in a clearing for a picnic and to paint our eggs. Climbed the hill beside the ruined house to "roll" our eggs down; more a question of finding a target to aim at to ensure the eggs did not survive. A lake warden came by later to check up on things. Gave us a wave but that was our adventure on the "high seas" of Lough Erne.

Back on land, we headed into Enniskillen to re-provision and finally out to the site near Florencecourt. The evenings already beginning to lengthen for it was quite late now but still plenty of light for the tent to go up.

Lakelands

Ah, the Bank Holiday Weekend - we needed this break.

Started on Friday with a quick jaunt to Drum Manor, Cookstown. Think this was the first time I had visited Drum Manor with a bike so spent the next day exploring the lake and other paths.

The park has quite a varied landscape around the lakes or ponds. Formal paths infront of the old house ruins, running down to the lakeside. Regular shale forest paths through different parts of the forest. Then almost tracks through plantation areas.

We wanted to get to the Lakes in Fermangh so we headed off before much longer and just managed to Clonelly as darkness was descending.

The next day we spent mostly at Castle Archdale. First we cycled from the marina car park round the coastal path exploring some of the outlying remants from the war. On one section of shore - perhaps by the "Burma Road" found a sloe bush reasonably lush with fruit; one to remember for the future.

We continued round through parkland arriving at the Butterfly Garden. The day had heated up nicely so this was very pleasant; first walking through the wildflowers in bloom: red, yellow and blue flowers. Caught a poppy head with almost translucent petals. In a section of several Buddleia, several different types of butterfly flitted about the bushes. Was quite difficult to get a decent picture with wings open and lit properly.

We finished up at the remains of the Castle itself and took in the Wartime Airbase exhibition. I remembered this from when we visited from Fintona. The exhibits had improved I suspected cos they kept me well interested. When we started to get hungry, headed into Enniskillen to sample the Greek restaurant