Montmorillon

Back at Lathus, took the road for Saulgé following the left bank of the river. The church in Saulgé is the first (or last) in the series for frescoes; I was tempted to stop but time was getting on and I reckoned it would be better to setup camp and spend the evening exploring Montmorillon which had 3 fresco sites and other interesting stuff. Saulgé got deferred then till another day. Next stop was the campsite at Montmorillon.

Exposed roof timbers

Montmorillon is a pretty, large town, about twice the size of Ruffec, with a medieval centre and modern commerce on the outskirts of the town. By the time I had pitched camp, sourced grub for dinner and devoured same, everything in the old town had closed. I don't think folks had quite gotten in to the way of tourists just yet, no-one was at all keen to cater for them.

Exposed wall timbers

The modern centre is on the east bank of the river tucked away among narrow, ancient cobbled streets. There is a good mixture of modern and old buildings in the main square. As I arrived, the local judo or karate club had commandeered the steps of the tourist office and were presenting prizes, cups and awards to their junior members (all primary-school aged kids) all sitting around judo mats surrounded by parents and grand-parents while the officials boomed their praise over a loud PA system. I spotted a curry-shop on one corner but it was shut for some reason. It was on the corner of a street that led to the old bridge.

Eglise Notre Dame above the old city

La Gartempe flows through town and the traditional approach was over the old bridge from the east (where the campsite is) right into the old centre. The style of houses is unlike the Charente - no pantiles, instead simple plain red flat tiles with the roofes relatively steep and a bit of a flare at the bottom. Either side of the bridge, the buildings have their timber frames and the gable-end carpentery exposed. Despite their evident age, the buildings and the streets are all in good repair - not at all dishevelled as in Confolens.

On the other side of the bridge a cascade of buildings descend from the spire of the Eglise Notre-Dame to the level of the river bank. This side of the river also has narrow cobbled lanes meandering up and down through the heart of the old town. Montmorillon promotes itself as the Cité de l'Écrit and scattered among the maze of streets and lanes are lots of small bijou shops dedicated to the art of l'écrit - sometimes rather loosely. They were all closed already - the shutters came down at 5pm it seems.

It turns out - I discovered the next day - this self-styled "Cité de l'Écrit" is a modern invention - since the 90's in fact. Worse the idea had been invented in Wales at Hay-on-Wye! Despite this, Montmorillon does have a sound history associated with the book trade with the surrounding area using the river in the production of paper. The town became especially renowned for its production of large wall maps, the sort they used to have in every school. Other claims to fame are museums on macaroons and office equipment (typewriters). All this I missed; it will have to wait till I return.

Eglise Saint Laurent, part of the Maison Dieu

The next day, rather than trying to visit the various fresco sites, I preferred to head toward Saint-Savin itself taking in the villages of Jouhet and Antigny on the way. Before I left, I did locate the local brewery - a small affair hidden away in an industrial estate - and the Eglise Saint Laurant. This church formed part of the Maison Dieu a large religious complex that served variously as an hospitalier for pilgrims and, much later, a Jesuit seminary. The Maison Dieu, along with the Eglise Notre Dame, house the 15th century frescoes.

Access was not open though I did not try too hard, keen to get on the road again. I was hoping one of the villages would have a decent restaurant for a proper lunch.