Friday 22 June 2018

Voile near Lathus


The stumble back to the bridge from the Gates of Hell was trying, what a relief it was to get back on the road with a decent cooling breeze. In fact this was glorious biking weather: wonderful clear blue skies and most of the time a refreshing cool breeze. Indeed, the sun was hot but it never got a chance to warm up the air. Perfect!

Le Grand Étang, Lathus-Saint-Rémy
Back on the road, headed for Lathus-Saint-Rémy, mostly just to see what was there en route to Saulgé. Not much to report, though I caught sight of a finger-post pointing south toward Le Grand Étang and a sailing club. Always on the lookout for decent canoeing water - not involving slalom gates and torrents - I decided to investigate.
A few clicks south of Lathus, following the finger-posts led to a barrier at the end of the road: the saling club. But a dirt track continued along the bank of the lake; the water lapping right up to the track gave a wonderful view of the lake - which, going by its name, is a natural feature rather than a man-made reservoir. There were no boats out today but I continued on, looking for a slipway perhaps.

I didn't find one, instead the track led onto one of those typical country roads that is not big enough to have a white-line down the middle but isn't small enough to be a single tracker either. I was about to do a u-turn when I spotted what looked like a tiled, conical roof through the trees. Was there a chateau nearby?

So I followed the road. Through the hedge I glimpsed the blue water of another lake and then as I turned a couple of sharp bends, I arrived before the entrance to a very impressive chateau. It is not marked on many maps but seems to be Le Château de Ris-Chauveron. Unfortunately, it was difficult to get a good vantage of the chateau.
West wall and gate house

As the road continued uphill, it passed between two enormous stone farm buildings that had seen better days. The one on the left looked more like a stable while the other had the huge traditional door arch of a barn and just as I parked up, a modern tractor arrived, disappearing round the back of the barn.

In the centre of the chateau ensemble was a huge tower house with battlements on the top. Possibly this is the original fortification built in the 14th century with a ring-wall protecting the keep. The location of the chateau is right on the border between Vienne and Haute-Vienne and in medieval times was in the County of Marche - a sort of lawless no-mans-land between all the competing counts and war-lords in the surrounding area. The castle evidently fell into disrepair and left the family's possession after the Revolution changing hands several times during the 19th century. It was restored in 1842 and later was rebuilt in 1882.

South wall glimpsed through trees
The 19th century rebuild perhaps explains the eclectic styles evident on the western wall facing the road. The main gate house features a square tower to one side and a crenellated round tower to the right which looks more decorative than defensive. Then stretching out to the left are a series of windows with stone mullions ending in a square tower with an almost Rhenish slate roof. The square gate house has two tall ornate chimneys; a small conical roof can just about be seen above the central tower, perhaps it is also a decorative chimney.

The most spectacular structures appear to be on the south-side, overlooking the lake. Unfortunately I could only get glimpses through the trees - two fabulous narrow round towers with pretty conical roofs and several other constructions set before the old tower. Something of a 19th century confection I suspect with wonderful architectural gems hidden in plain view. It must be a marvellous place to explore!

Sadly, not for me today. I turned back, returning to Lathus.






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