Lettergesh

We set off for a wander down the West coast of Ireland starting as usual in Connemara. Not that we were ignoring Donegal or Mayo even, but the northern part is more accessible being that much closer. Our plan on this trip was to make it as far south as we could, hopefully right to Mizen Head. Last time this was attempted, it took 2 weeks to reach Tralee when we had to turn back.

Could not quite make it on the Friday so we over-nighted in Florencecourt then the backroad through Manorhamilton-Dromahair-Ballintogher-Ballygawley to join the Sligo-Galway road (N17) at Collooney. Continued on the N17 and then took another new route: instead of Swinford-Westport we carried on through Knock branching off at Claremorris. Stopped for breakfast in Ballinrobe and then slowly through Joyce Country via Cong to Lenane and eventually Connemara. The weather was good and the scenery as you would expect: lough-side views with the Twelve Pins towering above and where it could, lush undergrowth exploding from the bog.

Lettergesh as usual was spectacular. We were able to pitch right on the headland overlooking the bay and as usual caught the sunsets as the sun disappeared behind Inishboffin. Amazingly each evening brought a completely novel end to the day.

Saturday, a golden sky lit from behind a cumulus hovering over Inish Boffin hiding the golden orb. Sunday, with a clearer sky we had to wait till the sun went down behind the island and the horizon turned orange with the last rays touching the edges of the low flying clouds. Monday, as the good weather neared a close and the sky clouded over, a break in the cover let a golden light escape and reach us with a long drawn out reflection cast upon the sea.


By now the weather was indeed beginning to turn and Tuesday brought rain and a drop in temperature  with wind speed picking up from the sea. The past few days of sunshine had allowed us to wind-down: a couple of canoe trips along the coast echoed by bike rides preventing us from totally vegetating.

The boat trips were interesting: as usual giving a completely different perspective to the shoreline. We navigated as far as we could up the river as the tide was coming in; the contrast between the river landscape and the estuary was quite striking. Emerging later into the big sea was "fun", the wind was up and sizeable breakers caused us to surf-in - usually when we did not want to; battling with the wind, tide and the waves was hard-work.

The other trip was less eventual as the wind was quieter. We went for quite a trip round as far as the next beach - which we had reached by bike the previous day. The route required us to navigate round several headlands which forced us into deep water. Nonetheless, the clarity of the water was amazing - a deep green populated by hidden rocks wrapped in kelp, shoals of fishes and a host of tiny jellyfish almost phosphorescent as the same just below the surface. The trip, using double paddles was probably past our range - we were glad to beach below the van.

It was time to move on...