Saturday, 12 January 2013

Malin Head

Malin Head Derelicts
On Sunday we set out for Malin Head. The middle of January is not the best time to see the area I am sure; the land looks desolate and barren with a biting wind whipping in from the sea. Various clusters of buildings dot the landscape some bristling with antennae and radio masts behind enormous chain-link fences. When the wind quietens a hush descends with no noise, no movement, an absence of life. This seems a wild, lonely place. Hopefully this is only a winter perspective; sensible folks are wrapped up warm huddled around a crackling fire with homely smells and family chatter.

Looking South-East from Malin Head
All roads lead up to Malin Head itself; a derelict outpost with vacant concrete shrouded shells including what seems to be the remains of a Norman tower house. The monitoring station no doubt has been removed now to a more sheltered location below the head

This headland boasts it is the most northerly point on the Irish mainland and clearly an important strategic lookout post. As well as monitoring the sea route round the head, look-outs also have a commanding view back over the peninsula itself; perhaps it was always as treeless as it is now.

International Markers for Aircraft
On the most northern part, marked out in white stones is the word EIRE - and a few folk have spelled their own names too. I presume this was for the pilots during the war returning from patrolling the Atlantic; Ireland was neutral in the war and their airspace should not be entered by combatants. This was true for the flying-boat base as Castle Archdale on Lough Erne though there, a corridor over Ballyshannon was negotiated to give planes quick access to the Atlantic. I think there was another such base on Lough Foyle.

As we were heading back, we fancied a cup of tea. Not a cuppa could be found; everywhere was closed.

Inishowen

River Estuary
Saturday morning started late and slow with a terrific Irish breakfast. A bit of chilling with our Kindles, relaxing before the fire.

Eventually we persuaded ourselves to get up, get out and do something. We had heard there was nice wee bar on the other side of the peninsula at Culdaff that offered good lunches and might have a céilí this evening. Off we set.

Just round the corner, as it were, was the estuary of a small river. We were able to park and walk down to the shore.

The tide was out leaving huge sand flats on either side of the river that stretched for miles inland bordered by pretty high dunes. Clusters of houses and maybe even villages could be seen the distance. The scale was incredible! Above us the dark foreboding sky occasionally opened with stunning shafts of light reflecting of the wet sand and distant glass windows; the shafts of light picking out inconsequential locations. We shared the beach with quite a crowd of folk but they only appeared as specks: testing the water course of the river or fetching sticks for a dog or preparing for some local 10km marathon.

Big sea, west  towards Ballyliffin
In the distance the sea was crashing across the beach or flooming against rocky outcrops but it was so far away, the size of the waves seemed small and tame but the sound belied that, whirling towards us, carried on airborne surf tasting and smelling of the sea.

Later when we had explored enough at sea level, we drove up one of the headlands and were able to look down at the mouth of the estuary where the sea breakers could still be heard crashing on the shore or rocks. Even at this distance the violence of the waves could be heard with huge areas of the sea almost taking to the air in a fog of salt-water. The wind up here was even greater than at sea level where we had been sheltered by the dunes and the cliffs

Friday, 11 January 2013

Ballyliffin


The Tide is Out
We were looking for a weekend break as a getaway while we were covered at home so signed up to GroupOn and one of the offers that came up was a 2-night stay in Ballyliffin. For some reason - despite all our travels in the Kerryvan and even from when we lived near Omagh we had never been to Inishowen. Even worse was when our eldest was born, a work colleague took a photo of a memorial attached to an old school-house commemorating the legendary Niall of the Nine Hostages and I never visted the place to see it for real.

So off we headed from Donaghadee to Ballyliffin on a cold, blowy wintery January Friday.

The Strand Hotel was definitely warm and welcoming when we arrived and true to its name, it is situated more or less on the strand. For us a short walk down a lane though in the summer - when we suspected the place was at its best - there is maybe a short-cut through the hotel's rear garden.

Ballyliffin Beach
The strand is huge and quite typical for Donegal, wonderful clear water, huge beach backed by small dunes and the bay enclosed by a pair of promentories at either end. Not surprisingly, it was empty when we were there but its hard to imagine it ever getting unbearably busy given its size. Even on this cold, winter's day it was glorious to be there below the huge sky breathing in the ozone.

Back in the hotel and everyone was playing the "spot-the-groupon-guest" game; apart from those having a post-funeral sup. The village isn't much to talk about, 50-50 holiday homes and locals, one shop and petrol station, one pub and 5 hotels! Two of the hotels are huge so this must be a very popular resort come the summer-time. For us, the Guinness was good and the food not bad at all; this was shaping up to be a terrific weekend.

Saturday, 2 June 2012

Castle Caldwell

Exposed corner tower
The original Castle Caldwell was built from 1610 by Thomas Blemmerhassett on the 1500 acre estate he acquired in the Plantation of Ulster. About 50 years later the castle was purchased by James Caldwell, a properous Enssikillen merchant originally from Ayrshire in Scotland. Unlike many other plantation castles, this one survived intact into the early 19th century. But by the turn into the 20th century the castle had fallen into disrepair and after 300 years it had become a ruin. It has remained that way since then though it is now in state "care". Much of the structure remains though it is now heavily shrouded in ivy and the forest continues to invade it.

Ivy root
A path leads past this corner tower and although the structure seems fairly evident, as you walk by it can be easily missed. Other views, especially toward what would have been the main facade can see nothing but a wall of greenery - nothing to suggest a castle lies buried underneath. Recent years growth have even over taken the warning signs.

It is not too difficult to dodge the nettles and brambles and scramble through the broken fence and enter the structure through what must have been a regular doorway at one time. Inside the tower is fairly clear of shrubbery though huge ivy roots trail through the old arrow slits feeding the ivy adorning the external walls. It is still evident from these slits and the castellations that can be seen from inside that the tower was constructed for defense.


Display windows facing North
Its use clearly changed over the years and while there must have been an internal court-yard with wide passageways spanned by high arches, more modern structures of wide arched windows facing out to the water-side are evident. Though earth has built up on both sides suggesting these might have been doorways, other access points are much lower. These must be a relatively modern feature being very close to where the lake would have reached.

Multiple floor joist holes and arrow slits
 In the mid-twentieth century, a major lowering in water levels was engineered. The waters of the lake then receded from the building though for much of the north-facing shoreline, the old coast is quite evident with a distinct, almost sheer drop in land levels from the old to the new reclaimed land. A boundary line of young oak trees also follows the old shore-line.


 This part of the building suggests the different levels; the bottom doorway leading out to the ancient water line, supporting holes for joists supporting a floor with arrow slit windows and at least one floor above that. Parts of the structure have survived amazingly well including several oak lintels above doors and windows, metal supporting spikes and even some plastered batten, possibly contemporary with brick work in various parts.

There are other structures elsewhere on the peninsula including a ruined chapel with graveyard and tombs, a viewpoint or tower-base at the eastern point, an ice house and possibly contemporary quays or landing stages on the south shore.

Sunday, 13 May 2012

Homeward Bound

Last few steps

After the intense trekking round the Enclos Paroissal we finally set out for the final leg of your journey to Roscoff and the ferry home. First to St. Pol de Leon and a super U; a pause at Rosscoff beach and a cool drive through the town to reach the boat in plenty of time

On Board

What a super boat Irish Ferries Oscar Wilde is! An entire deck of quality attention from a smart up market restaurant, a steak-house, a regular self-service cafeteria, a coffee bar and a pair of cocktail lounges at either end. There are a few TV or video feeds but they are easy to avoid in a selection of comfy seats. Plus there is a cinema, a sun-deck and for cheap-skates like us, several rooms of pullman type seats (reserved seats) as alternatives to cabins.

sunset image
Sunset

What happened after the sun went down

Judgements

What are our final impressions

Aires

What is our assessment of Aires?

Passions

What is our assessment of the Passions?

GPS

How to use GPS gadgets?

Abbaye de Saint-Savin

Abbaye de Saint-Savin from the river-side garden T he church bells announced 2 o'clock and there was already a sizeable crowd of fol...